Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog

Long lines typify dining at the Frontier Restaurant.

Serving Albuquerque since February, 1971, this commodious, barn-like restaurant occupies half a city block, seats more than 300 patrons and features an impressive art collection which includes several portraits of John Wayne, a favorite of the owners.

The Frontier is a place to see and be seen. Everyone from UNM students to celebrities (in Albuquerque this is primarily the local television news media) frequents the Frontier–and if they don’t, they pass by its windows.

The Frontier's western art collection features several paintings of John Wayne.

The Frontier is the brainchild of Larry and Dorothy Rainosek who are among Albuquerque’s most altruistic citizens, contributing to a variety of causes (such as the University of New Mexico, New Mexico Symphony Orchestra and The Albuquerque Museum). The Rainoseks also own the city’s three Golden Pride restaurants.

The Frontier is a restaurant in which memories are made and long held onto. Just as citizens of my generation remember precisely where they were and what they were doing when John F. Kennedy was assassinated, practically everyone in Albuquerque remembers their very first visit to the Frontier. It’s wholly unlike any other restaurant in the Duke City–an institution, a Route 66 landmark on historic Central Avenue and a bastion of inexpensive, but good to very good food (it’s not hoity toity enough to be called cuisine).

The world famous Frontier Roll

The Frontier has long been a refuge for UNM students, generations of which have studied long into the night in relative quiet (compared to a dorm room) and safety. For nearly two decades, it served studious or hungry patrons 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year.

In October, 2006, operating hours were scaled down because fighting often ensued among drunken revelers who got the munchies after their favorite watering holes closed down.

Carne Adovada at the Frontier (Courtesy of Sergio Salvador)

They also keep diners well fed–feeding some 4,000 people on weekend mornings. The Frontier is staffed by some 170 employees, all of whom are in constant motion to keep up with the lines of hungry diners. Those diners queue five or six deep from the entrance to the long order counters, but the staff keeps things moving smoothly.

In July, 2009, USA Today published an article entitled “Ten Great Places to Eat Regionally, Eat Well.” Author Michael Stern who co-wrote the fantastic 500 Things To Eat Before It’s Too Late listed his ten favorite restaurants.  On that list was the Frontier Restaurant.  Considering Stern has dined at tens of thousands of restaurants, to be singled out as one of his ten favorite is a lofty accolade indeed.

Green chile stew at the Frontier Restaurant (Courtesy of Sergio Salvador)

On the 500 Things… tome, the Frontier Restaurant’s carne adovada was listed as the third best carne adovada in America.  Calling it “the great bargain carne adovada–no less delicious for its $1.99 price–is a burrito at the Frontier in Albuquerque,” it was described as having “just enough chile-infused meat intense enough to turn the tortilla that wraps it the color of sunset.”  The book also named the Frontier’s huevos rancheros as the second best among the genre throughout the Southwest.

Aside from the aforementioned carne adovada and huevos rancheros, there are several entrees for which the Frontier is known, but the item most frequently mentioned as a favorite seems to be the fabled Frontier rolls. Served hot, buttery and gooey with a cinnamon sugar glaze, they pack a day’s worth of teeth-decaying, waist-expanding calories, the kind you enjoy consuming. They’re among the very best cinnamon rolls in the Land of Enchantment.

Serving green chile stew from the steaming cauldron.

Pundits and first-timers also agree on the green chile stew–it’s easily among the most popular in town. Served from a steaming cauldron, it has a piquant bite locals appreciate. Alas, the green chile stew is served with paper thin tortillas prepared production line fashion before your eyes by a machine. Considering the quantities of tortillas served daily at The Frontier, it’s certainly more efficient than using the more tradition comal (however, no assembly line contraption can match the aroma or taste of hand-formed tortillas off-the-comal).

If you order enchiladas or burritos, you’re asked if you’d like them with the green chile stew, but you can also have them with the restaurant’s chopped green chile or better yet, Christmas style. The Frontier’s version of “Christmas style” doesn’t necessarily mean a demarkation in which a clear boundary is established between the red and the green chile. As shown in the image below, you can’t tell where the red chile ends and the green chile stops. Trust me, that’s not a bad thing. The amalgam makes for an interesting flavor combination of medium piquancy.

Enchiladas with the Frontier's chopped green chile and red chile

The menu is segmented into breakfast, platters, hamburgers, sandwiches, New Mexican food and bulk items (like six-packs of the aforementioned Frontier rolls). There literally is something for everyone.

Burger aficionados who prefer Thousand Island dressing to “special sauce” relish the Bonanza burger in which two Ponderosa-sized meat patties extend beyond the bun’s capacity. The Frontier burger is similarly garnished with Thousand Island dressing, but also includes a hickory-flavored sauce. Burgers are served with French fries on the side.

The fresh squeezed orange juice is the best I’ve had anywhere–wholly unlike the doctored, pulpy and cloying stuff you buy in grocery stores. Orange after Florida sunshine nourished orange is squeezed into a refreshing juicy goodness. The Frontier’s hot chocolate simply makes you wish it was winter year round.

Pancakes with syrup

Breakfast is served all day long–and a day’s worth of carbs and calories is what you might have if you order even a short stack of pancakes. These are thick, fluffy orbs made golden brown and just beckoning for butter and syrup.